Wah Wagah!

In our growing years, we learnt extensively about India's struggle for independence the Indo-Pak tension ensuing, the LoC, the breaches, the well-guarded borders. But seeing, is believing. Wagah Border is one experience you will find no place else. The sheer excitement in the chill November air, the sun setting against the dust kicked up by charged up guards during their rehearsed march, the screams, the national colors, it's a place you forget from which state you came and remember the only fact uniting you with everyone on this side of the gate, the Indian in you.

The gate shut, to be opened with aplomb at sunset

Located about an hour's drive away from Amritsar, at Attari, is where the only road border crossing between Pakistan and India is based. Wagah itself is a village, through which the partition line dividing two nations was drawn in 1947. It is more known for the elaborate pre-sunset daily ceremony at the border, where the gate opens for a couple of minutes, with both sides putting up quite a show.

Maddening excitement at the Indian section

The drive to Wagah, comes to an end with gates guarded with heavy security, people turned out in the tricolor, plastic flags in their hands, screaming, some excited with their cameras all ready to snap up what they might be lucky to see. It is best to try to arrange a VIP entry from any contact one may have, which makes getting in a lot easier. Else, there is much heavier checking and of course a lot of furlongs extra, to tread. We made it in through the VIP entry, though even that well attested letter was checked by atleast four different sets of personnel at various points. No bags allowed inside, though a money purse and a camera are allowed. After the checking, we were made to sit at pre-designated seats flanking the main gate of the ceremony.

Style statement 

One look around and you just can't help but feel the excitement in the air. Across the gate at the Pakistan section, white and green, their flag flying high, the half moon perched up and a little beyond, the guards in black pathani suits. The Pakistani section was divided into two, for men and women and seemed to be less filled as compared to ours. We turned out as though it were a India-Pak match. The normal stalls were filled in minutes and the speakers blared patriotic music, much to peoples' delight, who went mad with frenzy, waving the tricolor and joining in. While waiting, a lot of us walked up to the main security at the gate and requested a click. He agreed with much ease, as it seemed to be a request he had been hearing every day.

The main guard at the gate

Minutes into the ceremony, the guards in pairs, walk up to the border, with much aplomb, salute their peers and take their position on the sides. The same drill is followed on the other side. The various marches are interspersed with the microphone beaming Bharat Mata ki Jai and Vande Mataram on ours, while Pakistan Zindabad and Jeeve Jeeve Pakistan on their side. The gate is then pushed open, the rope is drawn aside and the guards face each other with the most stern look for a few seconds, after which the flags are crossed and hoisted. It is quite a sight to watch, two flags of nations at constant war, hoisted at the same point by men separated by a few inches.

The gates are then shut and people disperse. The VIP exit path takes you across through a corner, a section, where the Pakistani VIPs also must walk past and for those few seconds, you can't help but wonder, how you are standing at an arm's distance from a neighboring country. A series of waves and smiles exchanged across that one single rope and you are politely asked to keep moving by the security forces.

The walk back then begins to resemble a typical Indian mela, with food stalls, people running helter skelter. As you reach the exit, you see how every available guard is approaced by kids and is posing away for photos. Makes you for a moment realise, how human they too are and how tolerant they must be, to be a camera's muse every single evening.

Less than an hour of a ceremony, but absolute celebration in every step. A sight not to be missed.